UK to Colombo

First Impressions: A City in the Hills

After the humid warmth of Colombo, the drive to Kandy was a refreshing ascent. Just 115 km inland, around 3.5 to 4 hours by road or train, Kandy lies nestled in the central highlands, surrounded by lush, mist-covered hills. The air grew cooler and the scenery more dramatic as we climbed, leaving behind the coastal bustle for a city rich in heritage and soul.

As we arrived, I was immediately struck by the tranquil beauty of Kandy Lake, a man-made body of water at the city’s heart. Locals strolled its perimeter, monks in saffron robes passed silently by, and the call of tropical birds filled the air.

Where History Breathes

Kandy is not just a city; it is Sri Lanka’s last royal capital and a symbol of national pride. It was the seat of the Kingdom of Kandy, which remained independent until 1815—long after the rest of the island had fallen under Portuguese and then Dutch control. The British finally annexed it through the Kandyan Convention, a pivotal year in Sri Lankan history.

Strolling through the city, I could feel the layers of time. The colonial buildings, traditional markets, and temples all seemed to whisper stories of resilience and identity. In 1988, UNESCO recognised this rich legacy by declaring Kandy a World Heritage Site.

Sacred Sights and Soulful Sounds

The crown jewel of Kandy is undoubtedly the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa), said to house a tooth of the Buddha himself. It is not only the most sacred Buddhist site in Sri Lanka but also a powerful symbol of political legitimacy in the island’s past. I joined the line of pilgrims filing into the temple, their offerings of flowers creating a sea of colour and fragrance. Inside, the air was thick with incense and reverence.

If you visit in July or August, don’t miss the Esala Perahera, one of Asia’s most spectacular religious festivals, featuring parades of elephants, drummers, dancers, and fire-breathers honouring the relic.

Nearby Wonders and Day Trips

Kandy also serves as a gateway to some of Sri Lanka’s most iconic destinations. A short drive takes you to the Royal Botanical Gardens in Peradeniya, home to over 4,000 plant species, including a spectacular orchid house. To the north lies Dambulla’s cave temples, filled with ancient Buddhist murals and statues.

Further afield, the majestic Sigiriya Rock Fortress, an ancient royal citadel perched atop a massive granite monolith, is a must-visit. And if you're seeking cooler climes, the tea plantations and colonial charm of Nuwara Eliya are just a few hours uphill.

A City That Stays With You

Kandy enchanted me not with grandeur but with grace. It is a city that feels deeply alive—where tradition is not preserved in glass cases but lived daily in rituals, festivals, and smiles. From its royal history to its spiritual heart, Kandy offers something rare: a sense of timelessness in a world constantly moving.

As I boarded the train back to Colombo, winding through tea estates and misty valleys, I knew Kandy was a place I would carry with me long after I left its sacred hills.